In the Studio: A Closer Look at NYC Heritage House, Oscar Heyman
by Tiffany Lucke
Oscar Heyman is an NYC cornerstone Heritage House that is third generation owned and operated, having produced some of history’s most breathtaking fine jewelry. While you won’t find their name displayed in flashing lights above a storefront, Oscar Heyman jewelry can be found in any significant collection of luxury jewelry across the word. Made by hand in Manhattan since 1912, Oscar Heyman’s NYC team of in-house experts do it all- from sourcing materials, to fabricating the tools that make the jewelry, to creating magnificent works of wearable art.
We had the pleasure to take a look behind the scenes with Tom Heyman and see what it takes to create a work of Oscar Heyman from start to finish. During our visit, we came to understand what it means for OH jewelry to be completely hand made in their self-contained midtown Manhattan workshop, and why that makes all the difference in creating jewelry that stands the test of time.
Q: Hi Tom, thanks so much for having us! Could you give a brief history of the Oscar Heyman jewelry brand? How did it all start?
A: “The history of Oscar Heyman dates back to 1901 when Oscar, age 13, and Nathan, age 15, traveled from Latvia for a five-year apprenticeship at the legendary Russian House of Fabergé. Upon completion, the two brothers brought their extensive jewelry skills to New York, and in 1908, Oscar went to work for Pierre Cartier. In 1912, Oscar and Nathan, along with younger brother Harry, founded Oscar Heyman & Brothers. Eventually there would be six Heyman brothers and two sisters who worked together establishing the family business. Oscar Heyman earned the nickname the “Jewelers’ Jeweler” after manufacturing for four of the five exhibiting jewelers at the 1939 World’s Fair (among them Tiffany & Cartier). The company’s legacy is in having been an asset to the behind-the-scenes production for larger jewelry retailers, however, today Oscar Heyman sells proudly under our own label. The business is run by the second and third generation of the family, who remain dedicated to the old-world style of jewelry craftsmanship.”
Q: The Oscar Heyman jewelry making process is completely self-contained, with every detail made from start to finish in their midtown studios. What does that mean and why is it important?
A: “Our purpose is to ensure, in each step along the process of creation, the ultimate quality. We are lucky to have the capabilities, expertise, and space to handle every step of the design and manufacturing process in-house. This often starts by alloying platinum for use in our machine shop…”
“The machine shop is where we die strike our settings and components. A necklace clasp alone might have 5-6 separate pieces, all of which we make individually, and then give to a jeweler to assemble. Our pieces go between the jewelers, polishers and engravers many times before and after the setters’ work…”
“Above is a process called thrumming, where hard to reach areas on a setting are polished using thread instead of the wheel. This attention to detail is essential to the creation of our final product…”
“This attention to detail is essential to the creation of our final product. Invisibly set jewelry was invented by Van Cleef & Arpels (who call it Mystery Set), and we produced it for them for many decades. A jeweler made the setting, and now the lapidary is cutting two parallel grooves just below the table of the stone so it can be slid onto the track that will hold the stones in place with no visible metal. In order to manufacture this sort of jewelry well, it is essential that the jeweler and lapidary work in collaboration. The quality of the jewelry is only as good as all of the components and so we deliver perfection across the board…”
Q: Tom, you introduced me to more than one Oscar Heyman employee who has been working for the company for over a decade. In our current professional climate of high turnover and low long-term commitment, why do you think Oscar Heyman has been able to consistently retain a community of jewelry experts? How has that contributed to making the company what it is today?
A: “It is only possible to achieve the finest quality with a dedicated team of highly skilled professionals. To work creating jewelry at our level is a skill set developed over decades and we retain our talent by recognizing that each employee contributes to our success. Our family is committed to making our company a great place to work by treating everyone with respect.”
Q: Since the company’s birth over 100 years ago, what characteristics of the brand have remained consistent?
A: “We design gorgeous pieces of jewelry that showcase exceptional gemstones. We aim for a timeless aesthetic by minimizing metal, so our items can be worn and cherished for multiple generations.”
Q: What are some things that have changed?
A: “Styles have changed over the decades along with fashion and social conventions. As an example, we primarily produce in platinum, however, the consumer preference has been yellow gold at certain times, and so we will meet that demand accordingly. Another example is the brooch category – while beloved by us, they have been out of fashion for a decade or so. We believe they are now showing signs of coming back. What has stayed constant is our extreme focus on bright, beautiful gems and high-quality manufacturing.”
Q: Oscar Heyman does not retail directly, but rather sells through retail partners across the world. Where can someone interested go in NYC to find Oscar Heyman jewelry?
A: “In New York City, our jewelry is available at the newly opened Saks Fifth Avenue Vault, Cellini, and Asprey.”
Thank you to Tom Heyman and the Oscar Heyman team for this incredible look into a cornerstone brand of NYC’s Fine Jewelry industry! Thanks also to photographer Alex Manno for the images used in this interview.